Zaika

The grand proportions that once added to the thrill of a meal at this pioneering modern Indian feel somewhat yawning, now that the crowds have subsided. A sparse smattering of affluent tourists & suits indicate that many have lost patience with dawdling service & lofty pricing. A shame, as Sanjay Dwivedi’s kitchen still turns out some fine contemporary Indian food. Tandoori starters score highly, with smoky Goosnargh chicken tikka or a platter of succulent salt marsh lamb among the standouts. Despite careful sourcing, the quality of meat & fish main courses is variable. Stick to favourites such as spicy halibut, marinated in ginger & chilli, pan-fried & served with crushed potatoes pepped up with mustard seeds, before sampling the innovative desserts. With stiff competition in the modern Indian market, Zaika will have to work hard if it is to woo back diners, although competitively priced lunches & pre-theatre menus are a useful start.