Zaika

A pioneering ‘modern Indian’, Zaika was among the first of its kind to win a Michelin star, but – despite popular support – we reckon it’s slipping. The original chef (Vineet Bhatia) is long gone, taking his gong with him, & recent meals haven’t packed the old punch. That said, the setting remains impressive (a former bank of imposing proportions, transformed into a slinky front bar & dark, sumptuously furnished restaurant), & the kitchen certainly doesn’t lack ambition. Chef/patron Sanjay Dwivedi produces a whopping five tasting menus alongside the already lengthy carte, but steep prices & swish surrounds create expectations his team seems unable to match – & service can be patchy. ‘Spiced’, tandoor-smoked salmon kebab, albeit great-quality fish, was so mild it tasted Swedish (the mustard & dill dressing helped too), & a main of cod (again labelled ‘spicy’) epitomised English summer, with fresh but muted accompaniments of minted peas & asparagus.