Zafferano

Knightsbridge is awash with Italian restaurants & Zafferano sits at the top of the tree. To Zaff’s many fans, ‘it never fails to exceed expectations’ with its charming blend of rustic brick walls, contemporary furniture, comfortable but buzzing atmosphere & ‘benchmark service’ – conscientious but not too fussy. Head chef Andy Needham leads an accomplished kitchen that executes everything with aplomb, from more complex dishes of finely shredded veal shank encased in billowy ravioli parcels & crowned with a rich, orange-tinged veal jus to less elaborate creations that allow the flavours of superior ingredients to shine through: perfectly griddled seared yellowfin tuna, for instance, is simply accompanied by super-sweet cherry tomatoes & rocket. Desserts are no less exciting – molten chocolate fondant with praline ice-cream is sublime. There’s so much to like about Zafferano that it’s hard to pick its strongest point, but the fact that the experience doesn’t cost the earth (the evening menu is priced at £29.50/39.50/49.50 for two/three/four courses) is a real delight. The elegant private room is also worth noting.

Wine List: This fabulous list is mainly Italian. Not only does it highlight the joys & diversity of Italy but also, like so many Italian establishments, it takes a sensible view towards mark ups, so there’s plenty of great value wine for those on all budgets to choose from. The Tuscan section is particularly praiseworthy. Best Buy White 2005 Calvarino Soave Classico, Leonildo Pieropan, Veneto, Italy, £33. Best Buy Red 2004 Trescone, Lamborghini, Umbria, Italy, £27.