‘Still up there as one of the best’, exclaims a reader following Zafferano’s 2011 behind-the-scenes refit – an upgrade that has yielded a bespoke pasta-making room in the kitchen. Otherwise, this
supreme ambassador for Italian cooking is unchanged, with its cream & red-brick walls, striped seating in autumnal colours, fresh blooms on every surface, & charming staff who epitomise
‘disciplined & polite attentiveness’. The food also shows immense attention to detail, from the aforementioned pasta (perhaps autumnal partridge ravioli with rosemary or saffron pappardelle
with pig’s cheeks) to starry dishes such as courgette-flower & saffron risotto, veal cutlet with white polenta & porcini or roast plaice with aubergine caviar & pesto. Above all, the
kitchen scores heavily with its dedicated sourcing & ingredients-led, seasonal outings – don’t miss the truffle bonanza, when there are ‘expensive treats’ aplenty. Prices are par for the
postcode, although the set lunch (£21/26 for two/three courses) is a standout.
WINE LIST: Zafferano is very strong on high-end Italian wine, which means there is not much choice below £50. The list of super Tuscans is well constructed, but unless you’re feeling flush
you will have to resign yourself to window shopping. The Fine and Rare section is primarily devoted to Bordeaux – an obvious sell in Belgravia. BEST BUY WHITE 2009 Franz Haas, Il Grigio,
Alto Adige, Italy, £37. BEST BUY RED 2008 Tenuta Argentiera, Poggio ai Ginepri, Tuscany, Italy, £39.50.
| Private Room | Capacity |
|---|---|
| Room for 20 people | 20 |
Andy Needham started cooking at The Savoy aged 17, moved to Paris in 1991 to work at the two-Michelin-starred Le Pre Catalan, & then found a niche in Italy as a private chef aboard yachts. This was followed by a period at La Cinzianella in Lago Di Varese, which ensured that by the time he returned to London in 1995, he was fluent in English, Italian, French & Spanish. After three years working as Giorgio Locatelli's sous chef at Zafferano he moved to St Tropez for a year. When he returned, he took up the reins as Zafferano's head chef when the supremo left to open Locanda Locatelli. Getting a table at Zafferano is tricky, but it's well worth the effort as Needham serves some of the finest Italian cuisine in London.Travel to Zafferano in style with London's leading minicab firm Addison Lee.
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