Slick Zafferano sees off the competition with an unassailably smart clientele of wealthy jet-setters and a genuinely charismatic maître d’. The rustic brick-walled dining room has grown over the years to accommodate more tables and a sophisticated bar, with expensive textiles, tan leather seating and ‘explosive sprays of blooms’ creating an affluent, cosseting vibe. A large wooden table by the entrance presents wicker baskets full of cheeses, salame, fruit and bread, and the kitchen deploys seasonal ingredients for a line-up of reassuring, confident dishes: ‘toothsome’ lamb ragù with pecorino, veal ravioli with gremolata and ‘simple but faultless’ halibut with walnut pesto and capers have all been commended of late. Be prepared for a ‘prohibitive cash assault’, especially if you are seduced by the patrician 400-bin wine list – although there are bargains by the glass.
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