Winter Garden at the Landmark Hotel

From the outside, you’d never guess what’s on show within the resolutely traditional Landmark Hotel. At its heart is a soaring eight-storey glass atrium, below which sits the Winter Garden restaurant, surrounded by towering palm trees. The setting is undeniably impressive, although archaic trappings, polished but stiff service & a pianist tinkling away in the background are constant reminders that this is a hotel lobby. The menu flits between Britain & France, giving traditional themes a contemporary edge. Meals might start with freshly picked crab with creamed avocado & saffron mayonnaise, or seared foie gras with sweet chilli pineapple, before a generous plate of pan-fried John Dory with spring beans & olive sauce, or supreme of chicken in an earthy morel sauce. The tasting plate of desserts is an indulgent way to finish. Prices are five-star hotel standard, although lunch is better value at £30/35 for two/three courses.