20 April 2014

Winter Garden at the Landmark

The Landmark, 222 Marylebone Road, London NW1 6JQ

£73.00 Modern European Regent's Park, Camden Town
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  • Wine: £29.00
  • Champagne: £80.00
  • Opening Hours: Mon-Sun 7am-10.30pm

Square Meal Review of Winter Garden at the Landmark ?

There’s nothing faintly ridiculous about the Winter Garden – this is full-on architectural madness, in the tradition of grand railway hotels whose vast internal spaces are filled with marble staircases, soaring columns & palm trees. Under its glass roof, The Landmark’s lobby is also a restaurant that keeps extremely civilised, 21st-century hours but also charges robustly all day long, including at wine time. Because of the glass canopy, the mood changes with the weather, but there’s always buttoned-up service (quite appropriate, given the clientele) plus an abundance of internationally pleasing salads, pastas, grilled Casterbridge steaks & dishes such as herb-crusted rack of lamb with peas & broad beans or fish & chips. Afternoon tea is an obvious must-do, although at £40, it’s priced alongside the top offerings in the capital.

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  1. For all that it's increasingly hard to make money, let alone a living, out of this food writing lark, it's certainly not without its compensations. An endless whirl of breakfast meetings and cocktail soirees, openings and anniversaries, lunches, launches and good old-fashioned dîners à deux keep one tremendously well-fed and watered while also constituting a pretty enviable social life, with only the prospect of high cholesterol, gout or the dreaded NFI to worry about. But best of all are the occasional really great commissions that come along, the kind that leave you cackling Muttley-style and wondering aloud "This is work?" as you fire off your invoice. The kind that saw me dispatched recently by les Deux Messieurs, the luxury travel guide for which I am the gloriously-titled Editor-At-Large, to The Landmark Hotel in Marylebone to experience their unlimited Champagne brunch...
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