A door planted in the garden and chairs ‘growing’ in the tree outside this former power station give a hint of what’s to come. The magnificent, towering industrial space now houses an avant-garde art gallery, with the prospect of unconventional dining among its magisterial hydraulic machinery. Flavours change with the seasons, but everything is driven by a modern European sensibility and a liking for Asian flavours: tandoori octopus with labneh and coriander, or pork chop with radicchio, fennel and anchovy dressing might be followed by chocolate cake with rye crumb and yoghurt ice cream. Liquid refreshment has also been carefully curated, with the Australian owner raiding her homeland’s top vineyards to create a list that has personality and focus; otherwise, on-the-ball staff will pour you anything from a marmalade martini to a pot of Jing white peony tea.
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