It’s a ‘Marmite’ venue, says one reader; you’ll either love it or hate it. In fact everything about the arty, Wapping Food experience is uncompromising – so if you don’t like it, hard lines. The cavernous, converted power station, now a restaurant & gallery (with a bookshop in the greenhouse), is striking & ‘great for a special occasion’ with plenty of ‘wow’ in the shape of old machinery, candles by the hundred & cool modern furniture. The kitchen tries hard, but the results can sometimes miss the target: starters of Spanish charcuterie & watermelon salad have outshone ‘overcooked’ roast Middle White pork with braised ruby chard & mustard & a dish of poached chicken with turnips & aïoli. The all-Aussie wine list is full of thrills & eminently affordable to boot: £41 is the upper limit. Weekend breakfasts, too.
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