As London’s oldest Indian restaurant, Veeraswamy may be the forerunner of curry house culture but, thanks to a smart reinvention by current owners Masala World, there’s no hint of the uniformity it spawned. This is full-on bhangra-glam, complete with glittering latticed screens, purple cushioned leather & a rainbow of hanging lanterns. Despite the odd gripe about ‘living on past glories’, the cooking generally stands out: rogan josh (served on the bone in a silky, saffron-laced gravy) is a world away from the high street, likewise that lager-swiller’s favourite vindaloo – here applied as a delicately fiery coating for slow-roast Barbary duck. Grilled prawns pointed up with coriander, mint & chilli are also unmissable. Breads are textbook, puddings competently made (try the tandoor-roasted nectarine) & the wine-matching, like the service, is generally spot on.
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