A venue for reliving the golden days when business lunches took all afternoon, Vats is no place for food snobs, but attracts wine buffs who appreciate a glass or two of the serious stuff. Plates of old-school British grub (lamb’s liver & bacon with mash, steak & kidney pud) play second fiddle to an impressive list of bottles from the greatest winemaking regions of the world. The big French estates dominate, but there are also some interesting names from further afield, such as Cloudy Bay Te Koko (a complex, barrel-fermented white from the famous Kiwi producer) or Contino Reserva (a warm & full-bodied single-vineyard red from Rioja). The higgledy-piggledy collection of rooms looks rather dated, but you can always escape to the alfresco tables out front.
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