Good wine at extremely keen prices is key to the appeal of any restaurant in the Brinkley’s group, but readers single out this Marylebone outpost because the whole package ‘never fails’. The mood
is gregarious & animated, although the plain, breezy decor (stripped floors, Venetian blinds) provides a neutral backdrop for a rather neutral, please-all menu that collects flavours from all
over the gastronomic planet. Start with potted crab with avocado or a saffron & prawn risotto sharpened with lemon, before tackling a Rossini burger (topped with foie gras) or a well-executed
goats’ cheese salad. Desserts go straight for the pleasure points, though a glass of vin santo & some biscotti might do nicely (portions can be rather overwhelming). Service is helpful, &
most of the staff know their wines.
WINE LIST: As part of the Brinkley’s group, the Union Café list delivers a well-rounded, offering great value at all price points, as well as wines from most regions. House wine starts at £15. BEST BUY WHITE 2003 Thierry et Pascale Matrot, Meursault, Burgundy, France, £43.50. BEST BUY RED 2008 Hamilton Russell, Pinot Noir, Walker Bay, South Africa, £40.
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