Opposite the Royal Opera House, Tuttons has been a Covent Garden fixture for over 30 years and recently re-opened following a serious brush-up. The brasserie-style interior features red leather banquettes, mirrors and brass fittings – a smart match for the distinctive Portland stone and brick exterior that was designed for the Duke of Bedford’s estate in 1886. The kitchen deploys native ingredients for a roster of British and European dishes designed to reassure the tourists, but the results can be uneven: our starter of black pudding and savoy cabbage lacked punch and sticky toffee pudding arrived lukewarm, though pan-fried sea bass was perfectly cooked and a salad of warm Gressingham duck with girolles, broad beans and pomegranate delivered fine textures and assured flavours. Breakfasts and theatre deals are tailor-made for the location, and there’s a popular terrace for fine-weather lounging on the piazza.
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