The crew working on last year’s Liberace movie Behind The Candelabra would have done well to check out the ‘incredible’ interior of Les Trois Garçons before shooting started – opulent doesn’t even begin to cover it. The high-camp decor, with handbags hanging from the ceiling and a menagerie of kitsch taxidermy, is a huge contrast to the ‘classic’ French cuisine on offer. Start with a fricassee of Dorset snails accompanied by pig’s trotter tortellini and a caramelised onion and garlic sauce, or a wedge of Sauternes-cured foie gras on a toasted brioche, before sampling, say, gratinated lobster with a ‘fabulous’ lobster butter sauce or a sturdy piece of British rose veal. Desserts ramp up the flair with popping candy providing the surprises in a decadent délice de chocolat, while the ‘very reasonably priced’ wine list majors on French bottles. Top-notch service, too.
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