A bulldog with butterfly wings; Bambi wearing a bejewelled choker; a cane-wielding crocodile: Les Trois Garçons' audacious decor may be uber-kitsch, but the kitchen plays it straight – serving up French classics to smartly turned-out locals. Curiously, the whole shebang works a treat, the glut of taxidermy and chintz adding a playful element while polished Gallic staff keep things running smoothly. Tender Scottish lobster served in the shell with a rich buttery sauce makes a classy intro, likewise tea-smoked duck breast with watercress and sweet-and-sour apple. Main courses are even more accomplished: a piece of turbot roasted on the bone with caper and lemon butter, say, or a trio of lamb cutlets with lamb croquette and sauce vierge. To finish, share a generous peach tarte Tatin with lemongrass ice cream. In all, Les Trois Garçons is guaranteed to leave an indelible impression.
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