Les Trois Garcons

High on romance, Les Trois Garcons provides an experience that no restaurant in the area can really match. The lighting is low & the kitsch & camp decor features all manner of diverting objects, from designer handbags hanging from the ceiling to a menagerie of stuffed exotic animals – all testament to the quirky tastes of its three antiques-dealer owners. Much like the decor, a lot of care goes into the food: starters include light & refreshing mackerel escabeche or salad of Dorset crab, while mains such as saddle of English rabbit with Scottish girolles, fresh figs & cauliflower are similarly well constructed, though much richer. While Les Trois Garcons does justify its hefty price tag in some respects, it doesn’t always quite pull off the whole package. Service, for instance, can be slow & ill-informed, & when you’re paying top dollar for a bottle of wine you expect clued-up advice.