Tokyo City

Tokyo City is an airy, hard-edged canteen spread across three lively floors, mixing conventional restaurant seating with a few chairs at the counter & modern floor seating at the back. Earlier experiments with a pan-Asian menu are long forgotten & the focus is now firmly on all things Japanese, from the huge choice of nigri & sushi rolls, hand-rolled temaki & sashimi to the hot food, which covers everything from tofu or pork belly donburi to specials such as the black cod with teriyaki sauce, as well as noodle dishes. Fizzes aside, the wines are all under £30 & include an Opal Ridge 2002 Semillon Chardonnay from South Australia at £10.80; there’s also sake & plum wine, as well as Asahi or Kirin beer.