Rex Whistler Restaurant

As you might expect from a restaurant attached to Tate Britain, there’s plenty to catch the eye in this visually striking room – not least a gigantic Rex Whistler mural, ‘The Expedition in Pursuit of Rare Meats’, which recounts an imaginary trek through a strange, surreal landscape. Art lovers, business diners & tourists are also impressed by the expertly wrought food & award-winning wine list. Despite the exotic theme of the mural, most of the kitchen’s inspiration comes from close to home with a succession of unfussy, seasonally attuned lunch dishes. In April, for example, you might kick off on a rich note with Cornish crab cocktail (which could have done with more crab & less sauce), before sampling tender spring chicken atop baby vegetables & morels. Conclude with old-school puds such as spotted dick or apple & rhubarb crumble. Breakfast & afternoon tea are good here too.

Wine List: Only open at lunch, the Tate is one of the few establishments to cellar wine. This, coupled with remarkably restrained margins, make for compelling bargains. France, Italy & Australia are the highlights & with more than 80 available in halves, this is the place to experiment. Best Buy White 2006 Bourgogne Blanc, Domaine Ramonet, Burgundy, France, £27. Best Buy Red 2001 Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Domaine de la Vieille Julienne, Rhône Valley, France, £35.