The City’s most timeless fish restaurant has made its peace with the 21st century, & now has a website. Happily, that’s more or less where concessions to modernity end. The owners continue to resist bookings, the interior retains its bygone station-buffet charm & the dining room is still only open for weekday lunches. Enjoy a brief encounter with a bowl of lobster bisque or some smoked cod’s roe before filling up with super-fresh Cornish brill (deep-fried, grilled or poached), salmon fishcakes or skate with black butter sauce. There’s no steak & nothing for vegetarians, while puddings trumpet the virtues of steaming, solid pastrywork & thick custard (if the prospect of traditional savouries such as buck rarebit doesn’t appeal). Wines are French & overwhelmingly white, with a smattering of vintage fizz for celebrants.
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