It pays to arrive early at famously reliable Sweetings because they don't take bookings and limited opening hours mean that getting a table is ‘a lottery'. This ‘true City legend' has been around since late Victorian times, and the sepia-tinted austerity of the interior retains its great charm. The menu, too, continues its single-minded focus on fish: crab bisque, gravadlax or smoked eel to start, followed by turbot with mustard sauce, skate wing or swordfish with tomato salsa. All items can be fried, grilled or poached, sides are simplicity itself and if school-dinner puds such as baked jam roll don't appeal, you can always round off with soft herring roes on toast from the choice of savouries. The all-French wine list favours fish-friendly whites and Champagne from various houses, with a reasonable selection by the glass.
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