With its low-key signage and low profile, the Star of India's modern take on Indian food does the talking for this neighbourhood haunt. Inside, the small, well-heeled interior has a polished art-deco feel, complete with crisp tablecloths and a spectacular frescoed ceiling depicting chubby cherubs. Food is pitched at the moneyed locals, with starters such as vermicelli-rolled coriander pancakes stuffed with paneer, red onion and green chilli suggesting that the kitchen has lofty ambitions. Elsewhere, chicken meatballs with raisins in an onion, cardamom and mace sauce is an intriguing departure from the norm, as is venison pasanda – simmered with Kashmiri spices and served with crispy straw potatoes. Desserts combine east and west to good effect – the white and dark chocolate samosa with vanilla ice cream is well worth a whirl.
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