Star of India

Not many local Indians have a ceiling decorated with a spectacular fresco of playful cherubs, but in many respects, the Star of India is a typical curry house – albeit in a rather swanky neighbourhood. Smart tables are dressed in crisp white linen & the food has a strong seasonal bias – check out house specialities such as venison pasanda with straw potatoes or malai adraki champen (char-grilled lamb cutlets marinated in cream cheese & served with pickled ginger). Or why not try marinated king prawns cooked with basmati rice & sealed with a pastry crust (a riff on the biryani theme). Prices reflect the moneyed postcode (a roast leg of marinated lamb for two flambéed in rum is £27), but then the venue has lofty ambitions.