It's one of the marks of a great restaurant that it can regularly ‘exceed expectations', and reports confirm this with The Square, where top toque Philip Howard remains true to his craft – fastidiously honing his skills, refining dishes and conjuring new ideas at will. Seasonal, labour-intensive cooking par excellence is the trump card – who can argue with the ‘flawless' technique that delivers rillettes of smoked mackerel with a vinaigrette of prawns, oysters, seawater jellies, cucumber and caviar, the signature lasagne of Dorset crab with a cappuccino of shellfish and Champagne foam, or a plate of grouse breast with turnip, celeriac, pancetta and blackcurrants. ‘Ethereal, incredible and insanely good', cheers one fan ecstatically. After that, magnificent cheeses and brilliant desserts such as banana soufflé with rum-and-raisin ice cream bring the curtain down. Well-tutored staff go about their business with composure and confidence, softening any stiff-collared Mayfair sobriety in the subtly lit, expansive dining room. Vintage Champagne and Burgundy rule on the authoritative wine list, making The Square a consummate purveyor of high-end gastronomy.
An incredibly well-put-together list. The Champagne selection is a delight, but the real highlight is Burgundy, with a section divided by different domaines as well as appellations. The margins aren’t the lowest in town, but considering this is a two-star restaurant, they’re not bad. A good place to treat yourself.
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