Phil Howard’s two-Michelin-starred Mayfair paragon is still supremely consistent and ‘unspeakably good’: a rare achievement for a restaurant that’s been in the game for 23 years. Haute cuisine that keeps pace with the times is one reason for The Square’s longevity, but it’s the simple fact that the cooking is always so enjoyable – both ‘sophisticated and flavoursome’ – that has kept Howard in the front-rank of London chefs. We’ve never had a meal here that hasn’t hit the sublime: from a starter of langoustine tails with Parmesan gnocchi, through roast veal sweetbreads with calf’s tail ravioli, to milk chocolate pudding with salted peanuts, praline and banana, there’s not one dud dish on the menu. First-timers should order the legendary crab lasagne with a cappuccino of shellfish, while repeat visitors can sit back safe in the knowledge that from the first amuse-bouche to the final petit-four, they’re in for an exquisite treat, backed by a huge, authoritative wine list. It might not be fashionable – the large, well-spaced tables and abstract art canvases feel anonymously corporate – but staff have personality in abundance, and ultimately it’s the food that does the talking.
An incredibly well-put-together list. The Champagne selection is a delight, but the real highlight is Burgundy, with a section divided by different domaines as well as appellations. The margins aren’t the lowest in town, but considering this is a two-star restaurant, they’re not bad. A good place to treat yourself.
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