In the era of celebrity chefs, Philip Howard is a refreshing anomaly: a charmingly down-to-earth Englishman who has achieved serious recognition through the sheer quality of his cooking.
Exquisitely crafted amuse-bouches show off the kitchen’s total fluency in high-end, modern French flavours. Next come Howard classics such as lasagne of delicate Dorset crab pointed up with
shellfish cappuccino & effervescent Champagne foam. Seasonal specials might include roast grouse served with a spring roll-like croustillant of the leg & quenelles of swede & celeriac.
The cheeseboard is superb, & desserts are beautifully presented: witness the chocolate caramel pavé with bitter chocolate sorbet, rock salt, olive oil & espresso (a thrilling combination of
sweet, salty & savoury). Some bemoan the buttoned-up atmosphere, particularly at lunch, though a £35 three-course menu gives reason to be cheerful. Subtle, flattering lighting ensures an upbeat
ambience at night. The setting is undeniably formal & service is professionalism personified, but the presence of Howard chatting to customers adds a personal note to the somewhat corporate
proceedings.
Wine List: The Square’s cellar ranks among the finest in the land. It delivers quality at all levels, including a massive & eclectic range by the glass. The classics of Champagne &
Burgundy shine, while producers are selected on their calibre rather than reputation. Best Buy White 2005 Mâcon-Pierreclos, Domaine Guffens-Heynen, Mâconnais, Burgundy, France, £50. Best
Buy Red 2005 Côtes du Rhône Les Quartz, Clos du Caillou, Rhône Valley, France, £39.
Chef: Philip Howard
A hugely respected figure on the London restaurant scene & a true chef's chef, Philip Howard has been virtually ever-present in the kitchen of his two-Michelin-starred restaurant The Square since it opened back in 1991. As well as his two stars (awarded in 1998), he boasts two BMW Square Meal Restaurant of the Year Awards among his many accolades. After studying biochemistry at university, he signed up for an apprenticeship at Roux Restaurants before working with renowned chefs such as Marco Pierre White & Simon Hopkinson. The Square began life in St James' but relocated to Mayfair in 1996, with Howard's classy, seasonal French cuisine winning admirers from the very start.
Write your own review and build your own restaurant guide
Got something to contribute or fancy yourself as a critic? All your thoughts and reviews will be collated on your My Square Meal page to form your own guide – a simple aide memoire for you to use or, in time, a guide in itself with its very own following.
The better your reviews the more highly rated and more ‘followed’ you will be, and, in addition to this, there will be Square Meal prizes for the best reviews.
Write your review
A hugely respected figure on the London restaurant scene & a true chef's chef, Philip Howard has been virtually ever-present in the kitchen of his two-Michelin-starred restaurant The Square since it opened back in 1991. As well as his two stars (awarded in 1998), he boasts two BMW Square Meal Restaurant of the Year Awards among his many accolades. After studying biochemistry at university, he signed up for an apprenticeship at Roux Restaurants before working with renowned chefs such as Marco Pierre White & Simon Hopkinson. The Square began life in St James' but relocated to Mayfair in 1996, with Howard's classy, seasonal French cuisine winning admirers from the very start.
