
‘Anyone who wants to see how fine-dining should be done, should visit The Square’, counsels a reader. While many of his peers are fawning for the TV cameras or signing cookbooks, Philip Howard is
at the stove, attending to the finer points of unimpeachable, grade-A contemporary cuisine – just as he did two decades ago when this Michelin-starred ‘treat’ opened its doors. Everything gels
& impresses, from the ‘quiet, assured service’ to the artwork & the superb cheese trolley – although it can feel a bit corporate & the acoustics leave something to be desired. But such
gripes seem churlish when Howard reliably delivers ‘perfectly paced’ cooking & sheer indulgent class in the shape of langoustine tails with Parmesan gnocchi, truffle & potato emulsion,
mallard with pumpkin, chestnuts & trompettes de mort, or crème brûlée with Muscat grapes & Sauternes ice cream. It’s never been the hippest restaurant on the block, but The Square remains a
benchmark for pure-bred, French-inspired culinary sophistication.
WINE LIST: Another tome that relies on the wine waiter to direct you to the right wine, but it is so well put together that you hardly notice. The Champagne offer is strong, but the real
speciality is Burgundy, with a section divided by different domaines as well as appellations. Not the lowest of margins, but not bad for a two-star Michelin. A good place to treat yourself. BEST
BUY WHITE 1997 Jacques Puffeney, Arbois Savagnin, Jura, France, £40. BEST BUY RED 2008 Barda, Pinot Noir, Patagonia, Argentina, £45.
A hugely respected figure on the London restaurant scene & a true chef's chef, Philip Howard has been virtually ever-present in the kitchen of his two-Michelin-starred restaurant The Square since it opened back in 1991. As well as his two stars (awarded in 1998), he boasts two BMW Square Meal Restaurant of the Year Awards among his many accolades. After studying biochemistry at university, he signed up for an apprenticeship at Roux Restaurants before working with renowned chefs such as Marco Pierre White & Simon Hopkinson. The Square began life in St James' but relocated to Mayfair in 1996, with Howard's classy, seasonal French cuisine winning admirers from the very start.
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