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The Square (∗∗∗)

Address:6-10 Bruton Street W1J 6PU
Tel:020 7495 7100
Email:
Website: Visit The Square website
Price: £92.00 Wine: £22.00 Champagne: £42.00
Opening Hours:Mon-Fri 12N-2.45pm Mon-Sun 6.30-10.45pm (Sun -10pm)

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The Square is a rock among the shifting sands of the London restaurant scene, always utterly reliable for the supreme quality of its ingredients & chef Philip Howard’s inspired but disciplined cooking. The ambience is spot-on for a serious restaurant: tall ceilings, full drop windows looking on to Bruton Street, & perfect lighting over well-spaced tables make it ideal for power lunches or romantic dinners. To start: perhaps tender langoustines on lovely soft gnocchi with Parmesan, or the famous lasagne of Devon crab with cappuccino of shellfish. Offal & meat are the glories of main courses, from roast foie gras with a sweet & sour elderflower glaze, to leg of Pyrénean lamb with thyme & garlic. The cheeseboard has an epic range, kept in fine condition (Epoisses & St Felician are superb here), while desserts run all the way from sugar beignet with vanilla yoghurt & passion-fruit coulis to Irish coffee baba with Drambuie ice cream. Service is suitably svelte & immaculate.

Wine List: This is one of Britain’s greatest cellars. The bins are ruthlessly selected, purely on quality, as seen in the Champagne section, which concentrates on small houses & growers. The Square’s cellaring policy means there are some rare, great-value older bottles to be had, particularly from Burgundy. Prices are almost charitable for a two-Michelin-star restaurant. Best Buy White 2004 Chablis premier cru, Laurent Tribut, Burgundy, France, £46. Best Buy Red 2000 Cornas Vieilles Vignes, Alain Voge, Rhône Valley, France, £51.

Chef: Philip Howard

The Square’s Chef - The Square chef Philip Howard

A hugely respected figure on the London restaurant scene and a true chefs’ chef, Philip Howard has been virtually ever-present in the kitchen of his two-Michelin-starred restaurant The Square since it opened back in 1991. As well as his two stars (awarded in 1998) he boasts two BMW Square Meal Restaurant of the Year Awards among his many accolades. After studying biochemistry at university, he signed up for an apprenticeship at Roux Restaurants before working with renowned chefs such as Marco Pierre White and Simon Hopkinson. The Square, opened with business partner Nigel Platts-Martin, was originally in St James’s but relocated to Mayfair in 1996, with Howard’s classy, seasonal French cuisine winning admirers from the start.

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Reader reviews of The Square:

Joanna L.
Reviews: 1

Joanna L. (30s, Female, London)

Had lunch recently on their set menu. Fantastic value, pièce de résistance was the dessert – passion fruit souffle with quenelle of lime sorbet inserted at the table my mouth is watering just remembering it! Service hits just the right level attentive but friendly and not too formal. Wine list heads for the sky, however asked the sommelier for a recommendation for under £50, she gave a couple of options and the one we chose was the best pinot noir I've tasted in a long time.

3 April 2009
Overall:9
Food and Drink:8
Service:10
Atmosphere:8
Value for Money:8
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Umesh P.

Umesh P. (30s, Male, United Kingdom)

One of the best restaurants in London in my opinion. Food is fantastic, Service is impeccable. The staff are incredibly attentive without being over-bearing.

The small touches make this place one of my favorites. Ordering an additional course to share, and it coming on two plate already, the leg of lamb coming out before being carved make the service feel special.

Also found the service to be adapted per table, making us more relaxed as it was a personal dinner, without the level of service dropping. Remembering my wife's birthday and having a cake ready was also an unexpected surprise.

3 April 2009
Overall:10
Food and Drink:10
Service:10
Atmosphere:9
Value for Money:9
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Mike H.

Mike H. (50s, Male, United Kingdom)

This place is fabulous – went as a party of 3 and we had the tasting menu and chose to have the accompanying wines.

Everything about the meal was great, balanced, well presented and the wines were carefully selected and absolute compliments to the food.

The wine waiter was slightly eccentric and had an outrageous French accent a la Clouseau but that added to the event really.

Not cheap but for this quality you wouldn't expect that – for me, amongst the best I have ever been to.

3 March 2009
Overall:9
Food and Drink:10
Service:8
Atmosphere:8
Value for Money:8
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Robert B.
Gold Reviewer

Robert B. (40s, Male, United Kingdom)

Editor's pick

One of my favourite restaurants in town. The set lunch is probably the best value for money lunch anywhere, the food is never anything less than sensational, the service a little formal and old school, though this is one of the reasons why The Square feels a little lacking in atmosphere. Since Jacques (the maitre d’) left, front of house has slightly lost its way, but I am sure that will improve. Phillip Howard is a thoroughly charming man who should, in my humble opinion, try and find the time to come out and say hello more often to his customers; his food is spectacularly good and unlike many chefs Phillip doesn't carry an ego the size of a small planet.

18/01/09

Having received a Xmas card from Phillip and his staff – old fashioned but a nice touch – I felt it was important to show my face. Somebody else was paying, which always makes the food taste better. The set lunch has got even better: the kedgeree starter was out of this world, with large flakes of beautifully smoked fish. The cheese board remains solid, although I was disappointed that there was neither a Vacherin or a Reblochon.

18 January 2009
Overall:9
Food and Drink:10
Service:8
Atmosphere:7
Value for Money:10
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Ben

Ben (30s, Male, London)

Excellent, some of the best food in Europe. Not with standing that the sommelier thought Veneto wines were from the south of Italy!

26 October 2008
Overall:10
Food and Drink:10
Service:6
Atmosphere:8
Value for Money:9
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David T.
Silver Reviewer

David T. (Over 60, Male, United Kingdom)

My wife and I used to be regulars at The Square in its former location in St James. However, when it moved, it lost a certain humanity, not to mention gaining a few pounds, and we never felt sufficiently at ease to include it among our regulars. The last time we went was probably a year ago – I only recognised one of the staff and none of them recognised us.

However, when we arrived, precisely on time (it was Sunday and the traffic was light), we were greeted in a friendly manner by the receptionist. This was the friendliest of any that we came into contact with, the rest being correct (mainly) but distant. One table containing two young(ish) casually dressed men attracted much more attentive and friendly service to the extent that I suspect those two men were members of staff.

My wife ordered her usual, which came without any fuss. I had a glass of German riesling (£9) and a bottle of sparkling water. The riesling was pleasant but a somewhat ungenerous glass. I followed that with a bottle of Cornas Reynard 1996 at £95 – pleasant, as it should be.

We were each presented with a wooden block bearing canapés, which were nice enough, but not memorable.

Not being a lover of fish, I had very little choice of starter – one vegetarian option, some fried fois gras or a parfait of fois gras and chicken livers. The vegetarian option looked boring, as it often does, and so, although I am attempting to cut down on… More

19 September 2008
Overall:7
Food and Drink:9
Service:4
Atmosphere:4
Value for Money:4
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