The Square

One of my favourite restaurants in town. The set lunch is probably the best value for money lunch anywhere, the food is never anything less than sensational, the service a little formal and old school, though this is one of the reasons why The Square feels a little lacking in atmosphere. Since Jacques (the maitre d’) left, front of house has slightly lost its way, but I am sure that will improve. Phillip Howard is a thoroughly charming man who should, in my humble opinion, try and find the time to come out and say hello more often to his customers; his food is spectacularly good and unlike many chefs Phillip doesn't carry an ego the size of a small planet.

18/01/09

Having received a Xmas card from Phillip and his staff – old fashioned but a nice touch – I felt it was important to show my face. Somebody else was paying, which always makes the food taste better. The set lunch has got even better: the kedgeree starter was out of this world, with large flakes of beautifully smoked fish. The cheese board remains solid, although I was disappointed that there was neither a Vacherin or a Reblochon.

20/10/09

It just gets better… More

Wow, just wow. The Square really does tick all the right boxes. From the fabulous canapes to start with all the way through to the puds, I don’t think there was a thing they could improve on with the food. The black rice crisps with taramasalata as a canape was a winning combination. I will never go back to the glaring pink stuff that we normally get (and, by the way, can I please have that recipe???). The other 3 canapes were also excellent, and this was followed by an amuse bouche of mushroom with a pumpkin veloute (well, I think that’s what the waiter said), which was delicious. Then onto the menu proper !

All of us had the lasagne of dorset crab, and I fully understand why this is one of the dishes that they are renowned for. Seriously, if I’d had that plate at home I would’ve picked it up and licked it clean it was that good. We did all contemplate doing so anyway ! My husband and I had the grouse as a main. He loves game, I’m not a convert but decided that if ever I was going to try it, this should be the restaurant to do so. Needless to say, I might give it a bit more of a try in future. The beef also looked… More

Had lunch recently on their set menu. Fantastic value, pièce de résistance was the dessert – passion fruit souffle with quenelle of lime sorbet inserted at the table my mouth is watering just remembering it! Service hits just the right level attentive but friendly and not too formal. Wine list heads for the sky, however asked the sommelier for a recommendation for under £50, she gave a couple of options and the one we chose was the best pinot noir I've tasted in a long time.

This place is fabulous – went as a party of 3 and we had the tasting menu and chose to have the accompanying wines.

Everything about the meal was great, balanced, well presented and the wines were carefully selected and absolute compliments to the food.

The wine waiter was slightly eccentric and had an outrageous French accent a la Clouseau but that added to the event really.

Not cheap but for this quality you wouldn't expect that – for me, amongst the best I have ever been to.

My wife and I used to be regulars at The Square in its former location in St James. However, when it moved, it lost a certain humanity, not to mention gaining a few pounds, and we never felt sufficiently at ease to include it among our regulars. The last time we went was probably a year ago – I only recognised one of the staff and none of them recognised us.

However, when we arrived, precisely on time (it was Sunday and the traffic was light), we were greeted in a friendly manner by the receptionist. This was the friendliest of any that we came into contact with, the rest being correct (mainly) but distant. One table containing two young(ish) casually dressed men attracted much more attentive and friendly service to the extent that I suspect those two men were members of staff.

My wife ordered her usual, which came without any fuss. I had a glass of German riesling (£9) and a bottle of sparkling water. The riesling was pleasant but a somewhat ungenerous glass. I followed that with a bottle of Cornas Reynard 1996 at £95 – pleasant, as it should be.

We were each presented with a wooden block bearing canapés, which were nice… More