Suka claims to be influenced by the traditions of Malaysian ‘hawker' food, but in truth, the setting couldn't be further removed from the backstreets of South-East Asia – plush postmodern furnishings, gleaming marble surfaces and a swanky, quasi-Zen courtyard are all par for the course in the glitzy Sanderson Hotel. The cooking also comes suitably glammed up for the guest list – diners pick and choose from a broad sweep of 'tapas-style' dishes ranging from poshed-up laksa soups to curries, claypots and noodles: standouts have included turmeric-marinated scallop and lemongrass satay, and ‘char sui' – BBQ pork belly with soy, honey and hoisin. ‘Express' nasi lemak mixed plates are also a handy daytime deal. It's all corking fun – although Suka's silicon-enhanced A-list patrons are a telling reminder that you're a very long way from Kuala Lumpur.
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