Having wowed Kensington with Kitchen W8, the dream team of restaurateur Rebecca Mascarenhas and chef Phil Howard (of The Square) have turned their attention to Sonny's. But their revamp of Barnes' most familiar restaurant isn't just wallpaper deep – the menu is more casual, the staff more relaxed, the diners more comfortable. It's more stylish, too, and the cooking is deceptively simple: steamed asparagus with vibrant green herby cream and a spot-on deep-fried duck egg; crisp-skinned sea bream lathered in light pesto sauce and served atop a simple tomato salad; BBQ baby back ribs with sour cream and chives. As for dessert, vanilla and citrus cheesecake is topped with a rhubarb glaze and partnered by a lip-smacking rhubarb purée. Well-considered wines, interesting aperitifs and affordable prices top things off, and there's a daytime deli, too.
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