Five years ago, punters might have suggested Sonny’s had become rather sedate, but now this elegantly furnished restaurant has celebrated 25 years by rediscovering its mojo, & the place is buzzing. There’s a generosity of spirit here – the cheerful staff are helpful, the cooking, although not faultless, is better than adequate, & the room is consequently full of happy people. Locals use the daytime deli for dinner-party food, drop in for a cheap lunch or early supper from the great-value set menus, or graze at the bar. Yet there’s still enough custom left for a full-blown dinner of globally influenced British cooking: an attractive simple salad of pea shoots, mozzarella & pecorino, say, or perfect rare-cooked tuna steak on (somewhat underdressed) Asian coleslaw. Desserts (lemon posset, baked cheesecake) aren’t to be missed; accompany them with a dessert wine from the eclectic list.
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