Smiths of Smithfield

Cavernous, clamorous & carnivorous, Smiths has something for everyone on its four floors – except maybe a table, so take the hint & book ahead. The all-day bar-cum-cafe (see separate review) on the buzzy ground floor is best for breakfast with the papers or lively after-work outings & serves irresistibly comforting foods such as fish finger butties with coarse tartare sauce. The industrial-chic ‘2nd Floor’ is more structured, with stylish brasserie fare – think prawn & fennel bisque, chicken, leek & mushroom pie, or calf’s liver with bacon & sage – prepped in an open kitchen. The Top Floor is power-eating territory & plays host to City types tucking into rare-breed beef hung for a minimum of three weeks. From here, there is no going up, but there is going out: a timber-decked terrace opens for alfresco dining in summer, when you might also be tempted to try one of the menu’s lighter options: ricotta gnocchi with broad beans & peas, say. Note: prices & opening hours listed above are for the Top Floor restaurant.

Wine List: Smiths has a great range of wines &, as you’d hope with a menu that has carnivorous tendencies, the reds are particularly strong. All countries are well represented, although Australia really stands out. There is a good selection of halves & wines by the glass; margins are eased at the top, while there’s also plenty of choice under £30. Best Buy White 2006 Shaw & Smith Sauvignon Blanc, Adelaide Hills, South Australia, £31. Best Buy Red 2004 Domaine des Schistes ‘Tradition’ Cotes du Roussillon, France, £27.75.