There’s a reassuring sense of tradition at Simpson’s-in-the-Strand, dubbed ‘a true British classic’ by its loyal supporters. No doubt the splendid Grand Divan, with its panelled walls & chandeliers, would still be recognisable to Benjamin Disraeli, George Bernard Shaw & other noteworthy patrons of yore who have dined here since it opened in 1828. Today’s diners can still feast on age-old, patriotic dishes such as mock turtle soup, potted shrimps, steak & kidney pie or 28-day-aged roast ribs with Yorkshire pudding served from silver-domed carving trolleys, as the smell of beef hangs in the air. Nursery desserts such as lemon posset or treacle sponge complete the picture. The food passes muster, but there are a few grumbles about lacklustre service – particularly from the sommeliers who oversee a pricey French-leaning list.
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