There’s nothing ‘eclectic or experimental’ about Simpson’s Tavern, observes one reader. In fact this sepia-tinted chophouse with its hard wooden pews, loud masculine chatter & kindly staff has been dispensing staple British grub to an appreciative City clientele since 1757, & remains proudly untainted by modern decorative fads. Approached via a Dickensian alley from Cornhill, it defiantly resets the clock to a time before jus or foam – think doorstep bacon sarnies for breakfast, followed by grills, roasts & a daily special such as braised oxtail or fisherman’s pie at lunchtime. Round off with suet pud or a plate of ‘stewed cheese’ – which tastes ‘significantly better than its description’. The short, eclectic wine list includes a handful by the glass, but draught Bass seems more in keeping with the spirit of the place.
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