Lunching MPs love the private panelled booths at this venerable branch of the Langan’s restaurant dynasty because they provide the natural habitat for whispered political scheming & Westminster gossip. Low ceilings & ‘murky’ lighting add to the air of intrigue, while unobtrusive staff are a model of discretion. The menu plays it safe with determinedly retro dishes that were all the rage when Margaret Thatcher first came to power – think starters of smoked-haddock kedgeree, cheese soufflé or prawn cocktail followed by grilled calf’s liver & bacon, salmon fishcakes with parsley sauce or steak, kidney & mushroom pie. Fruit salad, chocolate sponge & sticky toffee pudding continue the retro theme, & the British cheeseboard is well worth exploring. Pricey bottles of Sancerre & Burgundy star on the French-led wine list.
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