A redoubtable West End institution complete with a bowler-hatted doorman and a clubby, wood-panelled dining room filled with piscine prints and cosy nooks, this ‘class establishment’ bears the Caprice Holdings stamp, with well-heeled regulars, intrepid tourists and foodie celebs revelling in its cossetting atmosphere, silky service and dependable menu. While there have been some reports of lacklustre cooking (‘big reputation, big let-down’), most wholeheartedly approve of Sheekey’s indulgent fish dishes – think ‘huge, glorious and creamy’ lobster thermidor, Cornish fish stew with a satisfying dollop of garlic mayo or ‘cosy and buttery’ fish pie, plus the odd on-trend riff such as roast pollack with truffled cauliflower, cockles and sea rosemary. Meat eaters also have their say and wines are a fine match for the food, while traditional savouries and sweet thrills such as plum and damson pie with clotted cream are further attractions. In short, J Sheekey promises a must-try mix of ‘old-world glamour and fancy seafood’.
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