
Fans of Scott’s queue up to praise this classically cool Mayfair grandee: ‘this is one of the great rooms in the world’ swoons one; ‘nothing in London, or New York for that matter, compares’ gushes another. Not surprisingly, they love everything about the place: the doorman, the stunningly ornate oyster bar, the ritzy clientele, the romance &, yes, the food, too. Only crammed-in tables & heavy wine mark-ups rouse them from their reverie, with a few naysayers adding that the kitchen is coasting. Certainly, its deceptively simple seafood classics (largely British, but with some international inflections) have to be spot-on to impress, but usually they do. Unparalleled renditions of lobster mayonnaise, seared scallops in the shell, slip soles with capers & lemon butter, & a big-selling shrimp burger are Scott’s signatures, & there’s always plenty for those who prefer, say, a seasonal plate of venison with braised lentils & sour cherries. ‘Glam, glam, glam!’ applauds one regular.
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