San Lorenzo

Established in 1963, this über-traditional Italian was a celeb-spotter’s paradise in its heyday – a sprawl of sunlit rooms on three different levels, spread across three different buildings. Vaulted skylights, canvas umbrellas & an Eden of pot plants create an alfresco vibe, while cheeky prints of semi-naked women add some Latin zest. Not a lot has changed since the restaurant opened – when it was still sophisticated to fold napkins into fans – but deep-pocketed regulars & the odd nostalgic celebrity nevertheless still jump at the chance to woof down plates of prosciutto with melon & tagliatelle bolognese or ingredients-led specials from burrata di murgella to rustic rabbit casserole with polenta. Prices are high for an offering that doesn’t win unanimous praise. The deli next door serves pruned highlights from the menu, plus panini.