Zuma
‘So fabulous, it’s almost beyond words’, exclaims an adoring fan of this high-gloss, über-glamorous Knightsbridge jet setter. Normal socialising rules do not apply here, celebrity is king, &
you should ‘get ready to spend more than you expect’ – but everyone agrees that Zuma is ‘electric’. Join the cocktail crowds in the bar, take a raw fix at the sushi counter (‘the best this side of
Tokyo’, according to one well-travelled reader), or ensconce yourself amid marble pillars, unyielding wooden surfaces & natural stonework in the smart dining room. For a considerable outlay,
you can sample some miraculously good contemporary Japanese food – tantalising tasting plates of addictive sweetcorn ‘popcorn’, creamily succulent, robata-grilled sea bass with a hot-&-sour
sauce, or ise ibe (whole lobster transmuted so that the shell becomes a plate). Wagyu beef is ‘outstanding’, & desserts blend Japanese heritage with French finesse: try the sweet chawan mushi
(egg custard) for a lesson in the pleasures of texture. ‘What an experience!’
WINE LIST: If you’re new to saké, this list will definitely help, with its large selection of sakés & shochus. Considering the location of the restaurant (a stone’s throw from Harrods),
prices are fair & the overall offering well balanced. BEST BUY WHITE 2010 Domäne Wachau, Terrassen Grüner Veltliner, Federspiel, Wachau, Austria, £36. BEST BUY RED 2009 Domaine
Julien Sunier, Morgon, Beaujolais, France, £48.
Rainer Becker's hyper-trendy Zuma was a truly cosmopolitan affair when it opened in 2002: a German chef with an Indian business partner selling Japanese food to London diners. Becker began his career working in Germany's finest restaurants, before touring the world with Hyatt hotels. He arrived in London via Sydney & Tokyo, where he spent six years immersed in local cuisine & culture. After launching the Rib Room at London's Hyatt Carlton Tower (now the Jumeirah Carlton Tower), he branched out on his own in 2002 with Zuma, following it up two years later with Roka. Meanwhile, Zuma is establishing itself as a global brand, with openings in Hong Kong, Dubai & Istanbul.
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