Zuma

‘Cool, classy & sophisticated’, Zuma has held the top spot on London’s Japanese dining scene for at least five years & shows no signs of falling from grace, leading some to ask ‘why bother with Nobu any more?’ Choosing from the menu is no easy task – ‘everything is amazing’ – but there are a few recommendations we’re happy to make: sublime tuna tataki with shards of crisp garlic, first-rate sushi (including the must-try dynamite roll), terrific spicy beef with red chilli & sweet soy from the robata grill &, possibly the standout dish, lobster tempura with spicy ponzu. Yes, it’s expensive, but it’s rare to find a place that ‘has it all’ – or nearly does: Zuma’s immense popularity leads not only to high noise levels & cramped surroundings, but two-hour table slots – a major irritation given that service can be patchy.

Wine List: This list kicks off with a very good range of sake, each with a helpful note making it easy for the beginner to navigate. The rest of the list is equally good. Wines have been selected purely on their ability to match the food &, considering where you are, margins are not high. Best Buy White 2005 Chenin Blanc, Rudera, Stellenbosch, South Africa, £35. Best Buy Red 2004 Rosso di Montalcino, Carparzo, Tuscany, Italy, £32.