St John

Fergus Henderson’s nose-to-tail British repertoire, served up in the whitewashed surrounds of a former smokehouse, ennobles & even glamorises the extremities of meatiness. Foodies, power suits & carnivorous fashionistas love the austere simplicity that bestows St John with a clarity of purpose, transforming the outrageous into the everyday. Calf’s brain, squirrel hearts or deep-fried tripe are typical of the unashamedly butch approach, while those less keen on eating unmentionable bits of animal anatomy may opt for comparatively conventional dishes such as braised rabbit with cockles & white cabbage or a Middlewhite chop with pea puree. Desserts fall firmly into the retro comfort zone: think treacle tart or blancmange. Presentation is simple, tipping into clumsy, & portions are always generous, while the wine list is based around an eclectic exploration of French AOCs. Service can be slow, so allow plenty of time, even at lunch.