The elder statesman of British ‘nose-to-tail’ eating, St John is still a gut-busting gastronomic force to be reckoned with, & most visitors relish the sparse excitement of it all – the bare-bones interior, the scuffed floorboards & the pared-back menu with its promise of no-holds-barred cooking. The full-frontal, daily assault is a revelatory ‘offal crusade’ led by the likes of duck hearts with green beans & pickled walnuts or the iconic bone marrow & parsley salad. Even meatier (& mightier) are plates of Middle White pork loin with courgettes or venison offal with lentils (‘so incredible’), while desserts plunder the memory banks for baked egg custard or bread pudding. Only the wine list dares to speak with a French accent. Some, however, have accused St John of growing forgetful & lazy with age, suggesting that attention has shifted to the St John Hotel in Soho. But a must-visit all the same.
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