St John

English food is in vogue, but St John was ahead of the game with its nose-to-tail cooking & thoroughly deserves its place in the nation’s restaurant pantheon. Its stark whitewashed walls give no hint of the sensual pleasures in store for diners, who tend to be media types, foodies & City workers. It’s hard to bypass the iconic starter of roasted bone marrow, served with a tangy parsley & caper salad, sea salt & toast; but if you can resist, try a plate of langoustines & mayonnaise. Simplicity is the theme here: there’s no mucking about with richly flavoured venison liver, turnips & charlock (a mustardy leaf) or roast Middle White pork & prunes. Save some room for pud, if you can: rhubarb trifle captures the essence of spring, while jam roly-poly & custard is the real deal. The mainly French wine list features bottles from every viticultural nook & cranny in the country.