The stone lions guarding the entrance to Royal China Canary Wharf clearly stopped anything untoward happening during a period of refurbishment. With its new gold-leaf ceiling, a fabulous mural, glassed-off private dining room & tree-lined, heated terrace, it looks as regally exotic as ever. ‘Brilliant food in a lovely setting’ is bolstered by refreshingly low bills & a wine list with plenty under £25 – so this really is glamour on a shoestring. The ‘wonderful’ dim sum attracts its share of bankers & Chinese diners, while ‘the sound of people enjoying themselves’ makes for a delightful atmosphere – even if service is ‘brisk’ & ‘functional’. In the evening, a colourful, illustrated Cantonese menu harbours other treats such as sautéed oysters with ginger & spring onion, Dover sole specials & fiery pork dumplings.
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