As we went to press, the founding member of a group that now extends across London & overseas was undergoing a complete refurbishment, including a new gold-leaf ceiling & handpainted Chinese mural. Royal China’s popularity shows no signs of waning. If you’re after dim sum (served until 5pm daily), you’ll need to arrive early-doors or be prepared to queue, especially at weekends. Highlights have included silky steamed prawn dumplings with fragrant coriander, sesame prawn rolls, spicy chicken’s feet & fluffy steamed buns filled with sweet, sticky nuggets of roast pork, which some aficionados reckon are ‘even better than in Hong Kong’. In the evening, a mainly Cantonese menu takes over, featuring everything from seriously pricey Australian abalone & ‘superb’ Peking duck to steamed chicken with ham & Chinese greens or deep-fried fillet of eel with spicy salt. Hopefully, RC’s new look should help distract from predictably matter-of-fact service. Visit squaremeal.co.uk for a post-refurb update.
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