Rowley’s is just the ticket for heritage-hungry tourists & St James’s suited & booted brigade who prefer their food unchanging & resolutely simple – a slice of good old tradition, culinary clichés & all. Entrecôte served with chunky chips or unlimited French fries at recession-friendly prices are the house speciality, although the menu flaunts its brand of old-school internationalism with chicken livers & wild mushrooms on toasted brioche, homemade burgers & tuna niçoise. Puds bring it all back home in gut-busting fashion with sticky toffee pudding or fruit crumble. Decor inoffensively mixes gilt-framed mirrors, wood floors & original tiling with a strong sense of history from the building’s previous incarnation as the original Wall’s sausage shop. Wine selections are geared for affordability, although the £1.95 cover charge is an unwelcome throwback to the bad old days.
A great list for this
venue: compact, clear and well priced. There are plenty of regions and grapes that the wine novice would recognise, but there’s also some interesting stuff for the cognoscenti to get their teeth
into: Grüner Veltliner, Italian Pinot Nero, Slovenian Pinot Gris, and English fizz. Even better, the majority of the wines are under £25.
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