Rowley’s is just the ticket for heritage-hungry tourists & St James’s suited & booted brigade who prefer their food unchanging & resolutely simple – a slice of good old tradition, culinary clichés & all. Entrecôte served with chunky chips or unlimited French fries at recession-friendly prices are the house speciality, although the menu flaunts its brand of old-school internationalism with chicken livers & wild mushrooms on toasted brioche, homemade burgers & tuna niçoise. Puds bring it all back home in gut-busting fashion with sticky toffee pudding or fruit crumble. Decor inoffensively mixes gilt-framed mirrors, wood floors & original tiling with a strong sense of history from the building’s previous incarnation as the original Wall’s sausage shop. Wine selections are geared for affordability, although the £1.95 cover charge is an unwelcome throwback to the bad old days.
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