Andrea Riva’s devotees reckon that he is the host with the most in this part of town, and if you are a regular visitor to his eponymous restaurant, the whole team will be thrilled to see you. A menu will be presented and whisked away before the genial man himself tells you about the finest things coming from the kitchen today – perhaps langoustines, crab ravioli, roast suckling pig or zabaglione. With this kind of treatment, it’s hard not to like the place, but visit as a first timer and you may conclude that this is a somewhat pricey, relatively traditional upmarket trattoria and wonder what the fuss is about. Find someone famous or a Riva habitué to initiate you and keep returning to reap the benefits.
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