The Ritz Restaurant

Many of the capital’s restaurants have been placed in the hands of interior designers in recent years & emerged beige, blond & bland. Not so The Ritz, which retains all its opulent glory. Painted ceilings, sumptuous drapes, golden chandeliers & dainty furniture give the impression of eating in an 18th-century French palace, a feeling further fostered by the string quartet playing in the background & the army of well-drilled waiting staff. There are plenty of classics on the menu, too, although here & there modern-day culinary ambition shows through – saute of scallops with braised pork belly & avocado purée might be followed by stuffed loin of spring lamb with sweetbreads, asparagus & feta gnocchi & rosemary jus, with hibiscus-scented chocolate fondant for afters. It’s all executed with consummate skill, aided by the blockbuster wine list. The one part of the package that’s harder to swallow is the distinctly 21st-century bill.