The new-look Rib Room channels 1960s’ razzmatazz, with its low-lit bar manned by sharp-jacketed staff, plus a raft of tempting cocktails & a robustly luxurious dining room sporting bottle-green leather seats, thick patterned carpets & dark-wood blinds to keep things cosy. The menu puts on a bullish face & the kitchen invariably delivers (a good job considering the prices): long-standing favourites such as the dictionary-thick rib of beef are big enough for two, especially with creamy cauliflower cheese on the side, while thoughtful all-British combinations including roast partridge with black pudding, Savoy cabbage, deep-fried balls of bread sauce & tangy grape jus are packed with rich seasonal flavours. It may come with bags of retro swagger, but the Rib Room isn’t stuck in the past – witness its early adoption of an iPad wine list.
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