Red Fort

When the Red Fort opened in the late 80s it was the pinnacle of London’s Indian fine-dining scene. Twenty years on, it may have been superseded by a new breed of swish modern Indians, but it’s still an oasis of calm in the heart of Soho, combining elegant surrounds & refined food. The seasonal menu is traditional & uses quality produce: top-notch starters include skewers of spiced Devon lamb or meaty salmon cooked in the clay oven. Welsh lamb shanks in a saffron & yoghurt gravy or corn-fed chicken in a spicy clove & garlic sauce are highlights of the main courses, though the biryani is a must-try too. There’ve been a couple of grumbles about ‘rushed’ service & ‘high prices’ (which extend to the lengthy, heavily marked up wine list), though two-course set lunch (£12) & pre-theatre (£16) deals are easier on the wallet. Basement bar Akbar (see separate review) is more upbeat.