Randall & Aubin

This former butcher’s shop is a dinky spot, but what it compromises on size, it more than makes up for in atmosphere. Complete with Victorian tiles, bar stools around counters & glittering chandeliers, it’s a lively place fuelled by a brief but excellent range of wines & Champagnes. An ice-bed laden with crustacea indicates that seafood is the highlight, from the top-of-the-range assiette de fruits de mer to a simple bowl of whelks with lemon & vinegar. Spit-roast chicken, steaming & crackling from the rotisserie, is the other house speciality, or there’s fancier brasserie-style fare along the lines of grilled calf’s liver & pan-fried scallops. Given that the slight discomfort of the surroundings does not encourage lingering, however, something snacky like a sausage baguette might be preferable to a full-on meal. Open sash windows make it nice & breezy in summer, while the sex shops outside add a louche vibe.