Sam & Eddie Hart’s greatest achievement at the post-Marco Pierre White Quo Vadis is to get the place talked about again. The famous dining room hasn’t changed much (stained-glass windows,
original modern art, leather banquettes), but it’s back at the heart of the local scene & is one of the few Soho restaurants that deliver Mayfair-standard luxury. ‘Impeccable service’ is a boon
& there’s a ‘very cool’ members’ bar upstairs. The management team – a Hart brother is often present – puts the clientele of all ages at ease. The food highlights old-school English grills,
especially shellfish & steaks, along with trad puddings. Brown shrimps on toast, crab mayonnaise, & fat ribs for two are recommended time & again. A £2 cover charge pays for good bread
& filtered water. Despite several quibbles (a tough steak, small portions at high prices, poor acoustics), most diners seem prepared to forgive such shortcomings as this ‘sexy venue’ by &
large delivers.
Wine List: Don’t let the confusing layout put you off. This mid-sized selection of fine, mainly Old World producers offers many quirky bins to be explored. BEST BUY WHIT 2007
Vermentino, Poggio al Tesoro, Tuscany, Italy, £35. BEST BUY RED 2004 Cahors, Domaine de la Berangeraie, South West, France, £27.
Write your own review and build your own restaurant guide
Got something to contribute or fancy yourself as a critic? All your thoughts and reviews will be collated on your My Square Meal page to form your own guide – a simple aide memoire for you to use or, in time, a guide in itself with its very own following.
The better your reviews the more highly rated and more ‘followed’ you will be, and, in addition to this, there will be Square Meal prizes for the best reviews.