Quilon

Quilon has been plying its trade in the Belgravia backwaters for almost a decade & was awarded a Michelin star in January. Given that the restaurant has undergone no major recent changes, some restaurant-watchers saw the Michelin recognition as an odd decision, though a spokesperson for the guide says that it has ‘improved gradually over the years’. The cooking takes inspiration from south-west India’s Malabar coast & starters really impressed: crab cakes combined delicate white meat, fragrant curry leaves & a kick of ginger within a crisp coating, while cauliflower chilli fry saw pert florets deep-fried in a delicately spiced batter & pepped up with green chillis. In contrast, main courses lacked verve: lamb chops arrived in a sauce thick with coconut & roasted spices, but the meat could have been more tender. Meanwhile, Mangalorean curry contained perfectly succulent morsels of chicken, but the sauce had an overpowering tang of tamarind. Accompaniments such as rice & fluffy breads were, however, spot-on. Given the high prices (main courses average £22), the food quality should have been more consistent, but, on the plus side, Quilon’s three demure dining rooms offer a discreet buzz, well-suited to both business & social dining.