Four Seasons’ hallmarks are all present & correct at the luxury hotel group’s imposing Canary Riverside address. The smile on the door, the striking interiors & ‘always impeccable’ service reassure you that you’re in good hands. The hotel’s elegant Italian restaurant, Quadrato, keeps up the good work. A winningly flexible menu opens with ‘sfizi e stuzzichi’ (‘Italian-style tapas’) – variations on the themes of mozzarella, ‘crudo’ (raw), ‘fritto’ (fried) & ‘affettati’ (cured meats). Homemade pasta & risottos come in two sizes, although mains rendered from top-drawer ingredients cry out to be ordered; try the osso bucco with polenta croûtons or roast duck breast with figs, potato & balsamic sauce. The wine list majors in Italian names, with some Champagnes for the celebrants, while Quadrato’s groaning Tuscan brunch buffet has locals piling in en famille on Sundays.
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