Square Meal Review of Quadrato at the Four Seasons Hotel London
Service is the star at this spacious, clean-lined dining room and enticing riverside terrace.The waiters strike a perfect balance between well-informed professionalism and easy affability,
entertaining a mixed clientele ranging from groups of suits to families visiting from the Far East. Not surprisingly, the menu offers a little something for everyone: ‘Italian-style tapas'
translates as starter-sized portions of sashimi-esque raw fish, mozzarella three ways, crispy fried morsels and cured meats – mix, match, munch. Homemade pasta and risottos come in two sizes, while
various meats and fish are given the full Italian treatment (think slow- roast baby chicken with peperonata or grilled tuna with asparagus, olives, capers and tomato). Save room for dessert,
because sweet stuff such as mousse al cioccolato with passion-fruit sorbet gets almost as many plaudits as that sterling service.