If there’s a queue on Marylebone High Street, chances are it’s something to do with Peter Gordon. His double-decker restaurant is the high temple of London fusion, still leading the way when it comes to vibrant, esoteric flavours & ingredients. Business is hectic in the permanently rammed, no-bookings Tapa Room, where customers crowd in for cheese & charcuterie plates as well as rampant dishes such as beef, pomelo & shiitake salad with green papaya & tamarind caramel. The menu is always full of ‘pleasant surprises’, although it can feel like ‘eating in a disco’. Upstairs the culinary mash-ups continue in more rarefied circumstances, with carefully considered plates of, say, tandoori halibut with brown shrimp & dashi chawan mushi, pickled vegetable achar & a chickpea wafer. These intricate dishes offer further opportunities to explore the impressive library of New Zealand wines.
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