Defying convention since 2001, Kiwi star Peter Gordon’s two-pronged Providores still pulls a few surprises for those who relish the challenge of no-holds-barred fusion food. Upstairs all is calm, with time and space to consider the complexities of starter-sized dishes such as pan-fried Scottish scallops with celery, pickled bean, fennel, beetroot and carrot salad, beurre noisette hollandaise, bloody Mary sauce and jamón crisp, or roast Angus beef fillet on aubergine purée with asparagus, porcini and miso mustard. The 200-bin, all-Kiwi wine list has room to breathe here, too. Downstairs it’s more crowded (and deafeningly loud), with queues onto the pavement for the no-reservations Tapa Room. The attraction is an overloaded all-day menu promising everything from deep-fried squid with Urfa chilli salt and smoked-garlic aïoli to stem-ginger pannacotta with manuka-honey jelly and cherry sorbet. Crowds also pile in for breakfast and brunch.
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