There’s more than a touch of the 80s about this glossy 30-year-old round the corner from Selfridges, with its plate-glass windows, well-lit white interiors, antiques & displays of Chinese artefacts. But despite its impressive appearance, Princess Garden isn’t as pricey as you might think: the superior-quality, daytime dim sum isn’t much more expensive than Chinatown, & evening bills aren’t unduly high. The remit – familiar Cantonese fare with the odd twist – is done to a high standard, seasoning is spot on, & the menu’s sensible length takes the pot luck out of ordering. Crispy seafood rolls & soft-shell crab with spicy salt are faultless starters that might precede fail-safe sweet & sour pork or Dover sole with ginger & spring onions. Polite, thoughtful staff cope admirably with a cosmopolitan mix of shoppers, American Embassy staff, off-duty suits & Chinese families.
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