Long queues for weekend dim sum demonstrate the pulling power of Phoenix Palace, proving that hardcore fans will do almost anything for their fix of duck tongues in sesame dressing or crispy Scottish lobster dumplings – not to mention spring-onion pancakes, ‘briny’ pork croquettes, crispy dough sticks & the odd incursion of Japanese gyoza. The capacious & ornately decorated dining room is stuffed with embossed carvings, lacquered furniture & red velvet curtains, giving it enough superficial razzle to occupy diners who also want to splash out on the likes of sticky braised beef casserole with lettuce, ma po aubergine or – perhaps unwisely – ostrich fillet flambéed with port & shallots. Service can be a tad too brusque for some, but the food remains ‘amazing’.
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