Marcus Wareing at the Berkeley

The re-birth of Petrus with a new name marks the first solo venture from Marcus Wareing since his relationship with Gordon Ramsay unravelled, ending one of the most productive, star-spangled partnerships in British catering. The claret-coloured dining room is unchanged, but the post-Ramsay mood feels much happier & there’s a real sense of invigoration, driven by Wareing’s desire for a third Michelin star. It is looking good. Vitello tonnato makes a stunning opener – sliced discs of soft poached veal accompanied by a jellied square of intense smoked anchovies – while suckling pig cooked for 24 hours has to be one of the best things to eat in London right now, small pieces of the melting belly, loin, chops & crackling delivering hit after hit of pure pleasure. Desserts have the geometric precision one expects from top-end kitchens – perhaps an architectural arrangement of peanut parfait with Valrhona chocolate mousse, salted caramel jelly & raspberry creme.

Wine List: Petrus’s cellar was exceptional, but this huge collection of wine that majors in the classic regions – with a particularly impressive selection of Bordeaux – is even better. The extensive Pétrus vertical has gone, replaced by a massive range of first growths. But if you’re on a modest budget don’t be put off by the grand names, there is masses of choice at £35 and a top class sommelier team to help you choose. Best Buy White Laurent Tribut Chablis 2006, Burgundy, France, £42. Best Buy Red Domaine du Pesquier Gigondas 2005, Rhone Valley, France, £35.

(NB Gordon Ramsay Holdings still owns the legal rights to the Petrus name & the restaurant may re-open elsewhere.)