Pellicano

Owner Marcello Vargiu presides over this long-established homage to his native Sardinia, & has turned it into a lovely, sunny-looking space complete with cornflower-blue napkins, large windows & pale-yellow walls. Most of his customers are regulars from the wealthy streets surrounding the restaurant, & he knows many of them by name. The menu plays to the purchasing power of big bank balances, offering antipasti including Sardinian peppered ham with pecorino, meat dishes such as veal chop with broad beans, peas & mint, & tempting daily specials like homemade potato & nutmeg ravioli filled with sausagemeat. Sides at around £7 a go are an indicator of the prices, although the weekly changing set lunch is a more wallet-friendly option (three courses £19.95). The huge wine list, with its pronounced Sardinian accent, is a real treat.