If the inscriptions that adorn Le Paris Grill’s celebrated collection of old school ties are a mystery to all but their original owners, the restaurant’s success is easier to understand: well into its fourth decade and now in its third incarnation, this place is all about charcoal-grilled steaks with hand-cut chips – from 28-day aged Scottish sirloins to 750g ribs for sharing. Non-steak mains range from roast duck breast with a duck-leg shepherd’s pie to grilled swordfish with sauce vierge, while chalked-up plats du jour supplement the regular menu with the likes of bouillabaisse or coq au vin. The wine list is French-dominated, with plenty of beefy reds naturally on show. In contrast to the ballroom-sized restaurant, the basement bar is a snug little bolthole for lovers of toasted steak sandwiches, French bière and absinthe.
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