Le Paris Grill

Le Paris is dead – long live Le Paris. This old-established, French steakhouse has survived the demolition of its former premises & now plies its trade in the considerably bigger space once occupied by Indian restaurant Mantra. The ‘hotel ballroom’ ambience of the vast upstairs dining room hasn’t been banished entirely, but it’s warmer & more animated now, & the trademark striped ties have survived the move. Other traditions have made the transition too – steak tartare is still prepared at the table & roast meats are served from a carving trolley, although plates of terrific steak-frites are the main reason for coming here. The wood-panelled downstairs bar is snugly attractive & serves a short, informal menu that mixes French & Cajun influences. As you’d expect, wines are predominantly French too.