Everyone agrees that the smart restaurant on the eighth floor of the Oxo Tower is a ‘special-occasion' destination par excellence – a seductive combination of breathtaking cityscapes with finely tuned, accommodating service and often ‘superb' food. The kitchen subtly updates French classics with pan-European and Asian influences – say, lobster tempura with consommé, daikon and wasabi salad, duck breast with confit-leg lasagne and roast baby artichokes, or a dinky île flottante offset by coconut custard, passion fruit and discs of caramelised mango. The blue lighting may not be a great ‘mood setter' and high prices come with the territory, but with a ‘bargain' lunch menu at £35 for three courses, you can create a little room in the budget to explore the serious and deeply indulgent 800-bin wine list – fine Champagnes, big Bordeaux and hot-ticket Antipodeans are the stars.
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