The panoramic cityscape is a serious scene stealer, but there is plenty more going on at this unapologetically fancy set-up on the eighth floor of the Oxo Tower – even if the noise from the bar causes some unwelcome irritation. Whether you eat in the Restaurant or the (slightly) more affordable and laid-back Brasserie, the view is guaranteed, service is ‘exceedingly knowledgeable’ and the kitchen generally delivers the goods. Fine diners can expect a seasonally tweaked menu based on top-drawer ingredients – from Pernod-spiked Scottish langoustines with Jerusalem-artichoke purée and sea purslane to Devon beef fillet embellished with girolles, Parmesan gnocchi and spiced golden-raisin purée. Meanwhile, the Brasserie promises plenty of exhilarating ideas for those who like their tucker with strong global accents. Both venues have access to ‘hidden gems’ from the 800-strong wine list, and a stunning terrace does the job on sunny days.
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