‘Absolutely fantastic’ views have diners drooling as they sit in this smart restaurant atop the Oxo Tower. However, you should turn up early to guarantee a table on the summer terrace or by the
riverside windows, as these can’t be reserved. Admittedly the vistas come at a price, but if you’re out to impress or celebrate, this place does the business; polished service generally lives up to
expectations without resorting to stuffy formality or fawning. The menu now pays more heed to seasonal British ingredients & the two wonderfully autumnal main courses that we tried prove that
this approach is paying off. Roast grouse was served with gutsy haggis & a turnip & thyme confit; while rich venison was set off perfectly by a sweetly spiced date & cumin purée. To
start, an eclectic salad of warm duck egg, goose speck, blackcurrants & popcorn offered a surprisingly successful mix of textures, with a more conventional chocolate assiette rounding things
off with distinction.
Wine List: The Oxo cellar has matured into one of the capital’s finest, including seven excellent fizzes by the glass. The main list encompasses the whole world, with Bordeaux, Burgundy
& Italy particularly notable. Service charge is capped on bottles over £150, so this is the place to splash out. Best Buy White 2005 Viré-Clessé Le Mont Châtelaine, Domaine Rijckaert,
Mâconnais, Burgundy, France, £27. Best Buy Red 2005 El Gordito Lot 1, Calatayud, Spain, £28.50.
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