When it opened in the mid-80s, Orso was a star-studded, post-theatre haunt & a pioneer of new-wave Italian cooking. The celeb crowd has moved on, but this ‘basement hideaway’ still exudes a certain charm, & remains a pleasantly dressed-down choice for dinner amid photos of the stars. Readers welcome the ‘genuine spill of attention & hospitality’ from staff who serve up colourful terracotta plates of rustic Italian food such as veal & parmesan meatballs, buffalo mozzarella with roasted tomatoes & grilled courgettes or minestrone with pesto. The daily changing menu also has a decent selection of pizzas & pastas (all around the £11 mark), while special set menus (pre-theatre is £17/19 for two/three courses) offer further value. An all-Italian wine list ticks off the regions, but doesn’t come cheap.
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