Corbin & King's latest all-day eatery looks set to complete a recent trio of smash hits for the duo. There's something of both The Delaunay and Brasserie Zédel about Colbert, which is A-list destination dining (Stephen Fry, Michael Caine and Dominic West spotted in one evening alone) disguised as a chi-chi bistro du coin. Its red leather banquettes, wood panelling, vintage film posters and tiled floor might seem ersatz, but any doubts about pedigree are banished by the food. Croque grand-mère – fried brioche filled with Comté cheese, Bayonne ham and bechamel sauce, topped with a fried egg – is the poshest of toasties; steak Diane makes a convincing case for the revival of an 80s' steakhouse hit, while puds and patisserie (a layered chocolate mousse or pistachio éclair, say) are spot on. Sloppy service, alas, lets the side down.
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