A judicious facelift & spruced-up menu have injected new life into Bistro One Ninety, where framed pictures now pack the walls, & plain bentwood chairs are juxtaposed with an ostentatious chandelier to pleasing effect. Following a year of complaints about ‘absolutely dreadful’ service, we’re pleased to report that staff seem to have perked up. You can once again depend on decently priced set meals arriving in time for curtain up at the nearby Royal Albert Hall. In addition, post-show diners are treated to some of the area’s most generous opening hours. The new menu is sprinkled with north African flavours, & the kitchen produces some accomplished cooking, including perfectly al-dente saffron risotto, & cumin-crusted lamb, cooked rare, with spiced aubergine mash. The Gore Hotel’s 35,000-bottle wine cellar is also a point of pride, incorporating eight quality selections by the glass & pichet, alongside big-name Bordeaux and Burgundies.
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