The eldest member of Mauro Sanna’s small family of Sardinian restaurants remains a popular destination for office workers & locals who appreciate its friendly charm. The gold & blue colour scheme is starting to show its age, but regulars still pack the place for the decent-value lunch menu (£23/27.50 for two/three courses). White bean soup & Sardinian ham with char-grilled fennel look good on the starter list, ahead of plates of spaghetti bottarga (with dried mullet roe) & roasted rabbit wrapped in Parma ham, with Sardinian cheeses or chilled ‘torroncino’ (nougat cream) to round things off. Similar dishes are also available on the evening carte – although prices go up as the sun goes down. Like its siblings Olivomare & Oliveto, Olivo’s all-Italian wine list makes a feature of Sardinia.
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