Chef Bryn Williams purchased this Primrose Hill legend from music mogul Vince Power in 2008, & has started to put his mark on aspects of the restaurant away from the kitchen. The decor has been
warmed up, with plush carpets & a proper ceiling in the back room – though it may take more than new flooring to compensate for the gaudy yellow & green colour scheme. Williams’s delicately
balanced French-based cooking remains unchanged, although pricey set menus have been replaced by an appealing carte that could open in colourful style with ruby-red tuna tartare, beetroot gazpacho
& horseradish cream. Roast venison loin with confit cabbage & a separate dish of swede gratin is a mix of butch flavours & graceful presentation, while delightful plum tarte fine hardly
needs its accompanying rosemary cream. The youthful front-of-house team deserve their 12.5%, & there are alfresco tables for prime Primrose Hillbilly-watching on summer days.
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