Odette’s is approaching its 45th birthday, but you won’t find any middle-aged complacency here. This elegant restaurant, in a prime position on Primrose Hill’s main drag, has always been cherished by locals, & since 2008 chef-patron Bryn Williams has done a fine job of keeping it on top form. He drives a talented kitchen team that deliver intelligent, sparky cooking. Clever flavour combinations include hand-dived scallops with salted grapes & cauliflower coconut purée to start, then halibut coq au vin – the firm white fish standing up well to a sticky Burgundy sauce. Apple & pistachio cake with Calvados cream makes an outstanding finale. Fairly high prices (for food & the well-crafted wine list) don’t deter the Primrose Hill set, though set lunch & early-evening menus are a good way to cut costs. The terrace out front & garden out back are an added attraction.
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